Kraków has over 130 churches. Some of them hold extraordinary things — a Gothic altarpiece that took 12 years to carve, stained glass that looks like it's on fire in afternoon light, a bell that weighs 11 tonnes. This is a guide to what's worth seeing and why.
St Mary's Basilica — the altarpiece
The Gothic altarpiece by Veit Stoss — completed 1489, took 12 years, carved from 700 lime-wood blocks — is one of the most important works of late medieval art in Europe. The bugle call from the taller tower sounds every hour and cuts off mid-phrase. The story behind that: a medieval trumpeter signalling a Tatar raid was shot mid-call. Dress code: shoulders and knees covered. mariacki.com
Franciscan Church — Wyspiański's stained glass
Plac Wszystkich Świętych. The stained glass windows designed by Stanisław Wyspiański (completed 1904) are a masterpiece of Polish Art Nouveau — enormous colour panels with the figure of God the Father in the west window. Free entry outside services. Come in sunlight: afternoon light through the west window is remarkable.
Wawel Cathedral — the coronation church
Polish kings were crowned and buried here for five centuries. The Sigismund Chapel is considered one of the finest Renaissance buildings north of the Alps. The Sigismund Bell weighs 11 tonnes. Partial entry fee; some chapels require separate tickets. katedra-wawelska.pl
Ul. Grodzka — the street of churches
In 500 metres: the Church of SS Peter and Paul (Jesuits, modelled on Il Gesù in Rome, early 17th century), the Romanesque Church of St Andrew (12th century, one of the oldest in Kraków), the Church of St Martin and the Church of the Holy Trinity. One of the most architecturally dense streets in Poland.
Divine Mercy Sanctuary, Łagiewniki
One of the world's most visited pilgrimage sites. The observation tower above the complex gives the best panorama of Kraków — Wawel, the river, the mounds, the Tatras on clear days. Entry to the tower: whatever you wish to give. Tram from the centre: about 25 minutes.
